I look at current fashion to help me make fabric choices.
But mostly, I want to design and choose clothing that the actor or audience might wear in their own lives. I consider it a big win when the actor tries something on in a fitting and so likes what they see that they ask if they can have it.
The coat on the middle woman on her knees was worn for all of 3 minutes in a 2 hour+ play. It is hard to allocate build time and money to something that is onstage for 1% of the show.
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